The various versions of “Chinakote” are all about the same. They may even be the same.
They all have the same traits.
First, they are not Monokote and will never be. Monokote is gone, but this is a good replacement. It is different, so there will be some differences if you are used to MK.
The heat ranges are as follows:
For tacking, we use about 240 degrees fahrenheit.
Tacking is the hottest temp that will not shrink the film.
Great for color over color.
For ironing on, we like about 280.
Sticks very well and will shrink the film around corners, etc.
You can actually go up to 340 or 350 to get it to shrink around a tight corner.
The biggest thing you will discover is that the glue is low temp and the shrink is high temp.
This will manifest its ugly self as seams pulling away when you start shrinking.
Use generous overlaps (1/4 inch) when you can.
If you use a heat gun (and you should), mask any seams with a ruler or cardstock.
Keep the high heat away from the seams and they will hold.
This stuff will shrink quite a bit. We have never melted thru, but we have had it so hot that it changed color. Permanently. Try to get the film as tight as you can while sticking it to the perimeter, to minimize the amount of shrinking required.
All opaque colors have white glue. Not a big deal but it will melt and leave white residue and visible white edges.
This is easily removed with a little MEK or acetone on a rag.
Don’t use lacquer thinner as it will dull the finish.
The film stays tight with extreme weather changes. This is a good thing.
The brighter colors will fade in sunlight after prolonged exposure.
Not a big deal unless you have to repair something.